How to build a small handheld game console

About this guide

Since it calls for some familiarity with programming, soldering, 3D printing, and electronics in general, this project is not advised for novices. Even though this book covers every step in great depth, you should still do some tweaking and problem-solving. Not every attempt will be successful."Hardware is hard."

Since I'm not an expert in any of these areas and created this project to learn, feel free to ask questions about anything that doesn't make sense to you. If you intend to construct it yourself, make sure to review the references for more thorough documentation and the licensing.

It is advised that you watch the video and read the complete guide beforehand.This will help you understand the steps involved and the options available to you.

Philosophy

From the very beginning, I wanted the person developing this system to be able to play games. I designed this project so that you may start with a working game console and start adding features as soon as you have the money.

For instance, I began using just the Raspberry Pi, an old keyboard, and a phone charger to power it while I played games on my PC monitor. I later added buttons, a battery, and a portable screen. And no matter what stage of the process I was in, I could always play games.

I think the greatest enjoyment comes from constructing your own items. Additionally, using them without having to wait to finish making them might add to the enjoyment of the process.

You might simply need to purchase a few items to begin playing games. The next steps will be to upgrade each of those areas individually, take your time, and only spend money when you can. That's just how I constructed mine.

Affordability

You'll see that most of the choices I took were eventually influenced by having multiple options accessible, even though I am aware that not everyone has access the components I utilized for this project. For instance, you can purchase a Raspberry Pi for a low price (they all have the same footprint) or utilize a ten-year-old one that you may have lying around collecting dust.

The same is true for 3D printing. The enclosure can be printed on beds as small as 18 x 18 x 18 cm using simple materials like PLA, so you may use the cheapest and smallest printers available. Another choice is to use a neighborhood printing business or go to a makerspace in your area.

However, I intend to construct the same console with the most advanced parts, such as an AMOLED screen, a body cut from a single piece of aluminum, and an x86-based SBC that can run SteamOS (such as Latte Panda or anything with an AMD Ryzen integrated APU).

Materials

I hope you've read the project's guiding principles and realized that you don't have to shell out cash to purchase every component at once. With parts that you might already have at home, you can start using the console right now.

Watch the video and read the complete tutorial before buying any parts.This will help you understand the steps involved and the options available to you.

• Raspberry Pi 4 Model B, 4GB RAM. Consider the following:
• Any Raspberry Pi 1B, 2B, 3B, or 4 is suitable.
• For most emulation use cases, 4GB of RAM is more than enough. 8GB won't noticeably improve performance.
• Raspberry Pi Zero, Zero W, and Zero 2W are suitable for this project as well. Though, you'll need to tinker a bit to acommodate the components inside the case.
• If considering using a Raspberry Pi 5, be aware:
• RetroPie supports the Raspberry Pi 5, but with some caveats.
• The Raspberry Pi 5 has significantly higher power requirements. I'm unsure if the PiSugar can meet those needs.
• I haven't yet tested all components and libraries with the RPi 5.
• 5-inches 800x480 IPS Screen with integrated speaker. Consider the following:
• Any screen of any size and resolution will work.
• However, I can only guarantee that the display linked here will fit physically in the case I designed.
• PiSugar 2 Pro. Consider the following:
• Any UPS HAT that is compatible with your Raspberry Pi model and has a battery should function.
• I can only promise, though, that the UPS and batteries connected here will physically fit in the enclosure I created.
• I don't know if the dimensions of other PiSugar models, like the 2 Plus, S Plus, or 3 Plus, are the same.
• A battery with maximum dimensions of 56 x 66 x 10mm (2.2 x 2.6 x 0.4 in) is all that is required for a good fit.
• I don't know if any PiSugar models can handle the Raspberry Pi 5's much higher power needs.
• Proceed at your own risk because this project demands you to alter your PiSugar, which will undoubtedly break its warranty.
• Soft Tactile 8mm Buttons (10 units). Consider the following:
• Although they feel more like a gamepad and are squishy, those are not necessary.
• Any standard tactile button will work just fine.
• These Soft Silicone 6mm Push-Buttons are an additional excellent choice.
• 90-Degree Angled Tactile Push Buttons (4 units).
• SD Card. Any SD card on this compatibility list is suitable.
• Breadboard to prototype a gamepad with the push buttons. It will also be useful for any future electronic project you might have.
• Male-to-Female Jumper Wires. Sometimes you can get them bundled with the breadboard.
• 40-Pins (2x20) Female GPIO Header To turn the PiSugar into a top-mounted HAT, use one unit. To reduce the quantity of soldering, look for solderless headers.
• M2.5 Screws and M2.5 Male-to-Female Standoff Spacers.
• They can be utilized on a range of electronic applications and are frequently marketed together.
• The lenghts will depend on your specific build.
• I used four 10mm screws and two 10mm spacers for the internal parts.
• For the enclosure, I used two 16mm and two 20mm screws.
• Any kind of cooling system for a Raspberry Pi that can work with a HAT, such as a metal heatsink.

01. CPU

Any type of computer is required in order to run games or, as it is in my case, emulators. Getting a small yet powerful computer was my top goal because I intended to make this a do-it-yourself handheld game console. I decided to use a Single Board Computer (SBC) for this reason.I know that SBCs can run games smoothly because I've used one of them to construct an arcade cabinet in the past.

With a CPU, memory, input/output, and other components necessary for a working computer, a single-board computer is a full computer constructed on a single circuit board.

For SBCs, the market offers a wide range of solutions.I choose a Raspberry Pi 4 Model B in my instance.Keep in mind that the model 4 was the newest available while the console was being built.

The Raspberry Pi appeals to me for a variety of reasons, including its large community, which means that if you have an issue, someone has probably already solved it. Additionally, every model has the same footprint, so you may use a board from 2012 to the most recent one for a project, and the physical limitations to construct a case around it would be the same. It's even more affordable because of this.

The Orange Pi 5 was another alternative that I believe was worth taking into consideration, but it is too costly and has a totally different footprint.

Operating Systems

I experimented with several projects that make the Pi a powerful emulation tool. RetroPie, Recalbox, and Lakka were the three primary ones. RetroPie has a large community and is, in my opinion, the most user-friendly platform for beginners. If you're interested, feel free to investigate the other ones on your own.

Overclocking

I talked about this subject in a previous blog post about configuring RetroPie. I think you should only overclock it if you want to run extremely specialized games on an older Raspberry Pi model. Additionally, remember that doing it incorrectly voids the warranty, so follow my instructions here.

Being mindful of heat dissipation is a trade-off for a Raspberry Pi portable gaming console.Although I believe it was superfluous, I included passive and active cooling in the enclosure in case I needed to overclock the Raspberry Pi.

Slimming down

I eventually came up with the idea to reduce the size of the Raspberry Pi board in order to conserve space. Eliminate the tallest ports in order to reduce the overall size.The problem is that, although it would have been an engaging film, I would have made everyone build the console using the same procedure.

Compute Module

Using the Raspberry Pi Compute Module (CM3 or CM4), which has the same components as a standard Pi but takes up less room, would have been an additional choice.

I have never worked with it, so that was the biggest drawback.I wanted to build this initial version of the console using the things I knew best so that I could add another layer of enhancement to make it faster and thinner.

People's options for building this console would also be limited if they used the Compute Module. I suppose there are a lot more folks with a Pi than CM lying about.

Step 1. Install RetroPie on a Raspberry Pi.

1. Identify which model of Raspberry Pi you have.
2. Connect a compatible SD card to your computer.
3. Download and install the official Raspberry Pi Imager.
4. Choose your Raspberry Pi model by clicking on the "Choose device" button on the Raspberry Pi Imager.
5. Click Choose OS. Select "Emulation and game OS", then "RetroPie".
6. Select the RetroPie version that is compatible with your particular board.
7. To install RetroPie on your SD card, click Choose storage and pick it from the list.
8. Click Next and install RetroPie on the SD card.
9. Installing games is now possible.I created a comprehensive tutorial on how to install games in RetroPie. For further information, you may always consult RetroPie's official documentation.

02. Screen

I decided on a 5-inch screen since I thought it complemented the casing I wanted to create better. I was certain that I wanted to incorporate a screen that seemed to be a natural part of the design while using a standard console controller as a guide.

The PlayStation Portal, which is essentially a PS5 controller that has been sliced in half and adhered to the sides of a tablet, served as my counterexample.That was not what I wanted.

Aspect ratio: I chose a screen with a 5:3 aspect ratio for this project, which is comparable to the 4:3 aspect ratio found in vintage televisions.For the most part, I wanted this system to be a retro gaming device.Running the newest games in 16:9 with few horizontal black bars is also possible using the 5:3 ratio.

Resolution: 800x480 looks fantastic for the size, but if the price of a better model doesn't increase suddenly, I wouldn't settle for anything less than that resolution and would definitely go higher.

Audio

Because HDMI is a standard for audio/video interfaces, I always consider audio as part of the display for projects like this. This build was made easier by the inbuilt speaker that came with the display I chose.

I decided to use that strategy for my implementation.The second-best alternative I suggest if you want to modify the design to include speakers is to take into account speakers made for portable screens.

Step 2. Connect it to a TV/monitor and keyboard.

1. Using HDMI, connect the board to any TV, computer monitor, or the display I specified.
2. Connect a keyboard.
3. Connect the Raspberry Pi to a power supply.
4. Turn on the Raspberry Pi.
5. RetroPie will ask you to configure all of your buttons when you first log in.Assign the desired keys using your keyboard.
6. Important:Make a note of which keys correspond to particular features. Later on, you'll need them.
7. These are the keys I set up:

• D-PAD UP → Key W
• D-PAD DOWN → Key S
• D-PAD LEFT → Key A
• D-PAD RIGHT → Key D
• START → Key Return (Enter)
• SELECT → Key Right Shift
• BUTTON A / EAST → Key H
• BUTTON B / SOUTH → Key G
• BUTTON X / NORTH → Key T
• BUTTON Y / WEST → Key F
• LEFT SHOULDER → Key Q
• RIGHT SHOULDER → Key E
• LEFT TRIGGER → Key Z
• RIGHT TRIGGER → Key C

1. To browse RetroPie's interface, you'll also need to use all of those keys. For instance, navigate through the menus with the D-PAD keys and confirm by pressing BUTTON A/EAST.

03. Gamepad

Using a breadboard is the most effective approach to prototype a gamepad and tweak it until it functions as intended. There are many resources that explain breadboards, such as this Sparkfun tutorial, in case you're unsure of what they are or how to use them.

Buttons: Standard 6mm tactile switch buttons are widely available for any project that requires buttons. They feel quite clicky, which is the only issue. I discovered two variations that enhance their tactile qualities. These silicone-based ones are still clicky, but not as much:

Additionally, these buttons are quite soft, making them ideal for simulating the sensation of a gamepad:

GPIO pins: With the exception of early models, the Raspberry Pi contains 40 pins that can be utilized for a variety of purposes.You can use any of the green and yellow pins here as a digital input.This implies that any push button can be connected to them so that the board can read it.

Analog joysticks: I made the decision to omit analog sticks from this initial prototype. Since the Raspberry Pi lacks analog inputs, a complete implementation is required. Right now, I'm working on integrating thumb sticks into the upcoming console version by integrating an Arduino Pro Micro that is connected via USB.

Using some "fake" analog sticks was my initial concept when I started the project. I could have read the eight directions as digital inputs by just utilizing an 8-way navigation switch, but I was unable to locate a model to purchase. To test it, I purchased a 5-way switch, however as the name suggests, it is not capable of diagonal movement:

Step 3. Add your own custom buttons.

1. Attach each tactile button to the breadboard and connect one leg to the board's ground row (-).
2. Connect the other leg of the buttons (+) to a pin on the Rasbperry Pi using jumper wires. Any button can be connected to any pin that is available, however it's crucial to remember which buttons go with which pins.
3. These are the pins I used:
4. Connect to Wi-Fi following the official docs:
5. RetroPie → WIFI → Connect to WiFi network
6. Either locally, by hitting F4 in RetroPie, or remotely, by turning on SSH, setting up a static IP, and running on your PC, you can access the Raspberry Pi command line:
7. $ ssh [email protected]
8. To map the GPIO pins to function as a virtual keyboard, use the Adafruit-Retrogame tool. Download and run Adafruit's script file, retrogame.sh, from the Raspberry Pi's command line:
9. $ curl https://raw.githubusercontent.com/adafruit/Raspberry-Pi-Installer-Scripts/master/retrogame.sh > retrogame.sh
10. $ sudo bash retrogame.sh
11. A prompt to choose a configuration will appear.To reboot, select any option and follow the instructions.
12. To map the GPIO pins to the keys you set up in step 2, reboot, then go back to the command line and update the retrogame.cfg file:
13. $ sudo nano /boot/retrogame.cfg
14. Here's an example of my retrogame.cfg file where I map my keyboard keys to my GPIO pins:
15. # Key GPIO Pin Console Button
16. W 19 # D-PAD UP
17. S 5 # D-PAD DOWN
18. A 13 # D-PAD LEFT
19. D 6 # D-PAD RIGHT
20. ENTER 26 # START
21. RIGHTSHIFT 10 # SELECT
22. H 20 # BUTTON A / EAST
23. G 21 # BUTTON B / SOUTH
24. T 12 # BUTTON X / NORTH
25. F 16 # BUTTON Y / WEST
26. Q 9 # LEFT SHOULDER
27. E 8 # RIGHT SHOULDER
28. Z 11 # LEFT TRIGGER
29. C 7 # RIGHT TRIGGER
30. For a list of all the possible key IDs take a look at Retrogame's keyTable.h file.
31. Save the modifications, then close Nano.Using the keyboard shortcut Ctrl + X, you may accomplish both simultaneously.
32. Reboot the console and check that everything works as expected.
33. $ sudo reboot
34. Using your personalized controller, you ought to be able to start games, browse the UI, and play them.

04. Power supply

A Raspberry Pi can be powered in a variety of ways other than by connecting it to a wall outlet. The USB-C port on the model 4 I used requires 5V 3A to function (earlier boards require less amperage). This implies that a basic power bank, for instance, might be used to power this project. Numerous HATs also enable you to supplement power with an external battery.

The PiSugar 2 Pro's features were the main reason I chose it. After I received it, there were other versions of the same device, including the PiSugar 2 Plus, S Plus, and 3 Plus. They should all work with this build because they have the same footprint. Because this console requires a lot of power, it is crucial to choose one with a 5000 mAh battery.

An UPS (Uninterruptible Power Supply) is what the PiSugar is.When the input power source or main power "fails," this gadget gives the board backup electric power almost instantly. When the power is too low, it safely shuts off and continues to operate.

Pogo pins are used to connect the PiSugar. It is nearly undetectable because it rests on the Raspberry Pi's back, unlike other HATs. Unfortunately, the HDMI and USB connectors that hold the Raspberry Pi to the display don't allow anything to pass between them, thus I had to turn the PiSugar into a regular HAT.

Pogo pins were used to link the Raspberry Pi and PiSugar.

Batteries:A Raspberry Pi handheld game console should run on any lithium-ion battery with at least 2500mAh.According to their claims, the PiSugar's 5000mAh battery lasts for 8 to 10 hours.In my experience, it has taken around half of that time to have the Raspberry Pi operating at its best, simulate console games, and run the fan constantly.

Step 4. Install the UPS and battery.

Prior to proceeding, make sure the PiSugar is operating well by connecting it to the Raspberry Pi in accordance with their guidelines. You'll already have a wifi gaming console by now!

To make the PiSugar fit in the casing, the next step is to change it from Hardware Under Board (HUB) to Hardware Attached on Top (HAT). This is something you should only try if you know how to use electronics.

Note that altering the PiSugar will undoubtedly nullify its warranty. Any harm you might do to your components is not my responsibility. Only move forward if you are prepared to assume full responsibility for changing your board. If not, look into alternative UPSs and batteries.

The PiSugar's pogo pins, which are the golden cylindrical connectors, should be carefully removed. The rigid side, which is not spring-loaded, should be pulled out immediately. To assist it come out, you might need to give the pin a little twist.

Solder a female GPIO header with two 20-pins to the PiSugar.For the PiSugar to work correctly, be sure to solder at least the pins where the pogo pins were. To make soldering easier, think about adding flux.

Solder wires to the GPIO pins (the ones you configured in step 3) that you plan to use for the buttons.

For testing, connect the PiSugar to the Raspberry Pi and plug in the battery.

Note: If the cables appear to be jammed up against the Raspberry Pi, don't worry. They won't be harmed by this.

To ensure wireless operation, turn on the Raspberry Pi and unplug it from the power source.

05. Circuitry

There are numerous options available for advancing a prototype from the breadboard. Creating a bespoke PCB is the option that would be most appropriate for this project. Other approaches, meanwhile, enable speedier prototyping.

Printed Circuit Board

All of the electronic parts required for a gadget to function are housed on a PCB.The green board of the Raspberry Pi, for instance, is a PCB. PiSugar's black board is no different. There is one in every electronic gadget, and you can create your own to meet your specific requirements. Some providers, such as JLCPCB and PCBWay, will print the board for you. Considering the inexpensive cost, the quality is excellent.

The delayed iteration process is, in my opinion, the sole drawback of this strategy. For the initial prototype, I had to eliminate as many bottlenecks as I could. I needed to comprehend the location of each component before I could create my own bespoke PCB. As an illustration, I may need to relocate the battery while I try to repair certain issues with the shoulder buttons.

Perfboard

Boards that have been pre-drilled in a grid pattern are called perfboards.It enables you to solder the electronic components to the board after placing them in the appropriate locations, similar to a breadboard. This is comparable to a transitional stage between a custom PCB and a breadboard. The fact that I have to position each push button in a precise location is the issue for me.I wanted complete control over where the buttons were placed so that the design would look better.Perfboards are used in many consoles, and I dislike how the design changes depending on where the parts must be positioned. That was exactly the opposite of what I intended.The components' placement must be determined by the design, not the other way around.

3D-printed board

I wouldn't advise putting devices that require electric currents or have the ability to raise temperatures on a 3D printed board.I chose to attempt this method because all I had to do was hold tactile push buttons.This method's primary benefit is that it allows for incredibly quick board prototyping.

Another benefit is that you can work with wacky shapes, like I did with the fan insert and the sections holding the shoulder buttons. The issue is that, due to those unusual shapes, I'm restricting the ability of anyone who construct this console to 3D print the board. During the process, I discovered that I could design a standard PCB by using the appropriate components for the right situations. For instance, I now utilize 90-degree tactile buttons for the triggers and shoulders.

Step 5. Wire and assemble.

1. Read the license and download the STL files.
2. The Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International license governs this work.
3. The originator must be credited. The work may only be used for noncommercial purposes. The same conditions must apply when sharing adaptations.
4. Print the six battery brackets and PCB prototype in PETG using 0.15mm layers and 15% infill.Print the brackets with supports and on their side. Make careful to adjust the slicer's fill angle to 0 if you need to print the PCB at a 45-degree angle, like in the image.
5. Attach the 6 battery brackets to the main piece with super glue.
6. Push buttons should be inserted inside the frame.Place ten regular buttons on the remaining areas and four 90-degree buttons on the shoulders and triggers. The buttons ought to remain firmly in position. If not, try printing the piece again while adjusting the slicer's layer thickness.
7. Solder one leg (-) of each button in series, connecting all of them together.
8. Solder each button's opposite leg (+) to a PiSugar header GPIO pin.Ensure that they are connected to the same pins that you selected in step 3.
9. Using two screws on the pin side and two 10mm spacers on the other side, fasten the Raspberry Pi to the PCB prototype.
10. (A) and (B) are the 10mm spacers. (C) and (D) are the screws.
11. Attach the PiSugar to the Raspberry Pi and use two screws to fasten it to the spacers.There won't be much room for the battery cables to fit, so be sure to connect the battery to the PiSugar first.
12. Note:If the cables appear to be jammed up against the Raspberry Pi, don't worry. They won't be harmed by this.
13. The screws fasten the PiSugar to the spacers.
14. Attach the display to the Raspberry Pi.USB power and HDMI video/audio are required for any screen. These PCB-based connectors that were included with the display are what I'm using:
15. The second best option are ribbon cables, also found as band or flat cables.

06. Case

It took me a long time to design my own case. Planning and execution took time, but so did the cumulative effects of years of disassembling gamepads and repairing them while keeping track of how each component functions. I'll attempt to highlight the key considerations I made when creating this console.

Using Procreate for iPad, I began sketching four variations with somewhat varied dimensions. Since I already had all the parts, I was aware that the screen's size and the depth of everything were fixed. I made minor adjustments to the handles' length, the other buttons' locations, and the d-pad's position. The goal was to determine whether one appeared more organic.

I used Autodesk Fusion 360's t-splines to model the console out of a rectangular box. To get the form I wanted, I essentially established one half as a mirror of the other (the green line in the screenshot) and began dragging its vectors.

To get it right, it required multiple iterations. Drawing something on a screen is one thing, but seeing it in real life is quite another. Additionally, you must adhere to the limitations of 3D printing.

In order to iterate quickly, I printed all of the prototypes in PLA, but I produced the finished result using PETG. In actuality, this was an error. Since PETG turned out to be a very soft substance, sanding it did not provide a flat surface. Because I was concerned that the console would get hot enough to soften PLA, I printed it in PETG. That turns out to be untrue, and I'm even investigating the possibility of taking the active cooling system out.

distinct methods of assembly are possible since 3D printing is a distinct manufacturing process than, say, mold casting. I created three distinct pieces rather than the customary cut in half of any game console or gamepad. The ability to print it on my Prusa Mini was the primary motivator.

The fact that the parts are put together from the sides rather than the back is something I appreciate. Later, though, I changed it to have the front and back sides like any other gamepad.

Step 6. Build an enclosure.

1. Read the license and download the STL files.
2. The Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International license governs this work.
3. The originator must be credited. The work may only be used for noncommercial purposes. The same conditions must apply when sharing adaptations.
4. Print the case-front and case-back in PLA. Printing them at a 45-degree angle, adding organic supports where necessary, and adding bespoke support enforcers where necessary allowed me to achieve the optimum strength and speed results.
5. Front case Around 4hs printing on Prusa Mini with 0.25mm layers.
6. Back case Around 6hs printing on Prusa Mini with 0.25mm layers.
7. Print all the buttons together in PLA, ensuring layer height is 0.10mm or less. I recommend printing the d-pad on its side with some supports:
8. Insert the buttons into the front case.
9. Place the assembled components inside.
10. Attach the back case and secure everything with M2.5 screws. Ideally, use 16mm long (⅝ in) screws at the top and 20mm (¾ in) at the bottom.
11. Done! Enjoy your own Rasbperry Pi handheld game console.

Wrapup

Tell me how it turns out! Send some photos if you construct it. Tell me what went wrong, what you had to change, and what I can do better.